Fittings Under Concrete

[jackreed]

I want to install a new radiator and close off an existing one. The floor is concrete. For the new rad location I have dug out concrete and exposed a 9" or so length of 22mm feed and return to tee in to. I have two concerns: First, the type of tee fitting -- there is a recent posting about compression vs. solder which states that compression should not be used under concrete, but since this is under floor level I think it's going to be difficult to drain down completely and dry out the pipe ends enough for solder ring fittings. The second potential problem is how to physically get the fitting in. Since this is a run of pipe in concrete, I am worried that when I cut the pipe, it will not have enough movement in it to push the ends far enough apart to get the fitting in.

I'd be very grateful for any advice.

Thanks,

Jack

[Dan]

Never use compression fittings under any find of flooring unless there is a proper access panel that can be lifted easily.

If there is a problem with moveing the pipes to get fittings in then you can cut it firther away form the tee and use slip couplings. Form the tee section, then use the couples to secure it to the rest of the pipe run.

As for water - use a Vax or similar.



Regards

Dan Robinson
Jennings Heating & Plumbing
CORGI - 138845
Email: dan.robinson@blueyonder.co.uk
Phone 0777 5731339
_________________
Regards

Dan Robinson
Jennings Heating & Plumbing
CORGI - 138845
Email: dan.robinson@blueyonder.co.uk
Phone 0777 5731339

[jackreed]

Thanks Dan. At the risk of sounding stupid, what are slip couplings? Assume they are soldered, given your comments about compression fittings?

Cheers, Jack

[jackreed]

Sorry -- I should have looked first, I just found out slip couplings are just straight couplings but without the pipe end stop in the middle. This should work fine, thanks again for the advice.

Regards,

Jack

[Dan]

don't forget your inhibiters when re-filling...

good luck.



Regards

Dan Robinson
Jennings Heating & Plumbing
CORGI - 138845
Email: dan.robinson@blueyonder.co.uk
Phone 0777 5731339
_________________
Regards

Dan Robinson
Jennings Heating & Plumbing
CORGI - 138845
Email: dan.robinson@blueyonder.co.uk
Phone 0777 5731339

[n7plumber]

and wrap it in denzo too...

[Dan]

Wearing the appropiate gloves 'cos it's manky 'orrible stuff.



Regards

Dan Robinson
Jennings Heating & Plumbing
CORGI - 138845
Email: dan.robinson@blueyonder.co.uk
Phone 0777 5731339
_________________
Regards

Dan Robinson
Jennings Heating & Plumbing
CORGI - 138845
Email: dan.robinson@blueyonder.co.uk
Phone 0777 5731339

[jackreed]

Thanks for the replies on this. Dan's comment about inhibitor springs another question -- we have a water softener (the resin/salt type). All the water except kitchen tap goes through it. Whilst that should be good from a scale point of view, the higher sodium content might be worse for corrosion? I was planning to use plenty of Sentinel X100 to refill. Would it be better to refill with softened water or hard straight from the mains?

Cheers, Jack

[thescruff]

never fill the heating system with nsoftened water always put it to by-pass

scruff

[jackreed]

Thanks Scruff. In addition to refilling with the softener bypassed, should I get the feed to CH plumbed direct off mains? Not sure how much new water would be added after initially filling (it's a vented system).

[Chris]

Yes you should really. Though there may not be much water being added, Chloride is the last thing you want in your heating water.